It was the best
of times, it was the worst of times. It was the age of wisdom, it was the age
of foolishness. It was the season of light, it was the season of darkness. It was the spring of hope, it was the
winter of despair. We had everything before us, we had nothing before us.
The intro to A Tale of Two Cities turns out to be an accurate description of my experience on the Pacific Crest Trail, although I suppose it could be fairly applied to any other arduous adventure.
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Pointing north on the top of Mount Whitney |
The best of times were often followed quite immediately by
the worst of times, and the worst of times often precipitated the best of
times. In the high Sierras,
around mile 870, I was low on food. That day, I hiked 35 miles over two snowy
mountain passes, and worse, down two snowy mountain passes, my legs sinking knee-deep with each step. For this reason, it is best to tackle
these snowfields either in the morning or late evening, when the sun is softer
and the snow is harder. At 9 PM, in the darkness, I crossed Bear Creek, a grisly
crossing as described by the guidebook, but this year was mercifully low on snow, and the water barely touched my knee. Still, the water was cold, and I was relieved to
take off my socks and partially dry them next a small fire I constructed using
old maps as kindling. I fell asleep around 10, the warmest I'd been in days, safe below 10,000 feet. There was no frost when I awoke in the morning,
the water in my Nalgene bottle, harvested from the last snow-fed creek remained
unfrozen. But, my watch showed a time of 11:00 AM, and though it was bright, I was
sure I had not slept that long. I tried to check my phone, but it ran out of battery
as soon as I turned it on.
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Yosemite National Park looking back on the Sierras |
I still planned
on hiking another 36 miles to Red’s Meadow before getting resupplying. I had two
Mountain House meals left and a tortilla. I figured I would eat lightly and
arrive at Red’s the next morning, hungry, but not famished. Well, maybe famished, but at least assured of a hot meal within the near future. Unsure of the time,
I started to hike, on stiff joints and cracked feet. I thought I had left Bear
Creek behind, but I forgot the North Fork, and then another creek, small but swift, and I was unable to string enough rocks together for a dry crossing. The water was cold, I was uncomfortable. I moaned, an outburst resulting more from my emotional distress than any physical pain. I sat
down next to the trail, ate my last tortilla and shut my eyes. A blue jay squawked at me from its perch
on a pine tree. Annoying bird. I threw a rock in its direction, not aiming to connect, just to startle. It remained unconcerned. The birds out here rarely
sang a melodious tune and the Stellar Blue Jay was the worst offender.
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The trail in the High Sierras |
There was
nothing to do, except to walk some more, up along a ridge and then down an
interminable series of switchbacks. I passed a couple makeshift signs along the way, each
directing me to VVR, the Vermilion Valley Resort, which had just opened to
hikers and promised a hot meal, a hot shower, and ample food for resupply. I continued on, still determined to stick to my original plan, which was to hike the entire stretch of the Sierras with no
resupply; a distance over 200 miles, 220 if I counted my side trip up Mount
Whitney. Plus, VVR was 6 miles off trail and
I disdained the idea of hiking extra miles. I walked through a grove of birch
trees with initials and hiker names carved into the bark, sometimes encircled
by a heart. I crossed a bridge, thankfully, and the last sign encouraging me towards VVR. I continued on, through another stream and then up towards Silver Pass, the last obstacle between me and Red’s Meadow. I kept debating whether I should value the experience over
the physical challenge and the two battled for supremacy in my mind. Of course,
the physical challenge was part of the experience, but when I thought of the
experience, I considered it to be more about the people and the cool places off
trail in the backwoods of America.
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Thousand Island Lake in the Ansel Adams Wilderness |
My mind was more exhausted than my body. My pace was as slow as the glaciers that once carved these valleys. I couldn't take it any more. I turned around, back downhill, towards VVR. My pace accelerated, a mountain stream skipping down the rocks. Food! Beer! Ice Cream! Little Debbie Snack Treats. A 400 calorie chocolate chip muffin. An IPA, on the house. A
large chicken Alfredo pasta, a salad, and a blueberry pie with ice cream that I
could not finish. NotAChance and Mac, two other hikers, happily took it off my
plate. My mind cleared. I fixed my watch with a simple click of a button. I weighed myself, 147 the lightest I had been since I ran cross country in high school. Now, I was hiking cross country, so it was fitting that my weight corresponded with the streamlined days of my adolescence.
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Skinny Selfie |
The next day, I hiked to Iva Bell Hot Springs, a short way off trail, in
the company of some other hikers I had met along the way. My solitude had been
shattered. I had no immediate need for food, and in some ways, I wished I had
continued on, just to push the edge of that physical and mental limit to see
what I might find out about myself when I looked back in.
The next
day in Mammoth, after a morning soak in Iva Bell hot spring, I gorged myself,
walking from restaurant to restaurant as I made my way back to the hostel.
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Mating ritual or fight to the death? |
Many people
would consider it foolish to hike 25-30 miles a day, every day, and often I
felt the same, especially in Northern California, after the majestic snowy heights
of the Sierras. Up here, the heat seemed trapped in the pine trees and only
places of succor were the small springs that flowed out of the steep ridge
sides. There were no lakes to jump in, only rivers that gouged deep gorges into
the rugged forests. My motivation had peaked
with the altitude, and throughout Northern California I wondered if I really
wanted to finish the trail. They call this feeling the Northern Californian
Blues and I heard that about 20% of people quit in this stretch.
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The half-way point in Northern California, just south of Lassen National Park |
I made it to
Castella, a small outpost with a post office and a gas station, next to Interstate
5 and the railroad. The temperature hovered north of 100 degrees. I sat down on
a picnic table and watched women in short shorts fill up their gas tanks. Quite
a vision after 70 days on trail. Soon, a whole bevy of other hikers joined me
on the picnic table and I was able to hitch a ride along with them to a hotel
in Dunsmuir. We watched the US lose to Belgium in the World Cup. One hiker, Milestone, got
a little too drunk and puked outside the sports bar. They hitched back to the
trail, while I stayed in town, reluctant to resume my trek. My mind wrestled
with indecision, and with each day of inaction, I spent more money and moved
farther away from the trail. I slept underneath a bridge and in a dismal one
room train station next to a guy with a motorized scooter who liked to count
the number of cars in each Southern Pacific freight train. I took an Amtrak up
to Klamath Falls and watched the Fourth of July parade down a Main Street which
was otherwise empty. I watched more World Cup Games and ate dinner twice at a
brewery with amazingly attractive waitresses, but somehow I was assigned the
least spectacular one both times. Maybe it was my patchwork beard. I read a book called the Tao of Pooh, and I tried
to just be; an uncarved block, a thing with potential. I tried to recognize and
understand my inner nature. Decisions would make themselves. I decided to fly
back home, and then, already on the Amtrak Train up to Eugene Oregon, my inner
nature felt uneasy, and I decided to hike some more.
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Fourth of July in Klamath Falls, Oregon |
After two days
in Eugene, I took a train back down to Dunsmuir. I arrived at 2:00 AM, and
because the only road connecting Dunsmuir to Castella was the highway, I walked
down the railroad tracks in the dark. Along the way, I heard a noise that
sounded like an unholy mixture between a ravenous stray dog and a scavenging
bird. I took off my backpack, and like an actor in a horror movie, fumbled to
unloosen my trekking poles before brandishing them at this unseen devil. “I’m
leaving. I’m leaving. Just passing by.” I spoke in a voice that resonated from
a depth unfamiliar to me. I walked away
briskly, into the moonless night. A freight train rumbled past, covering my
exit. I took large steps from railroad tie to railroad tie until I reached a
paved road that marked the boundary of Castella. On a dirt parking lot nearby,
I unrolled my sleeping bag. The next day, I hiked.
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The path (taken) |